Wednesday, June 29, 2022

Kedarnath - A note of gratitude

Longing to visit Kedarnath has been for years. I would be in tears seeing the pictures of this sacred place on instagram and little did I know I would go there soon, and on an auspicious day, HIS birthday, Tera May.

Kedarnath Dham

When I left Rishikesh on the 9th May, the plan was to stay in Ukhimath for a couple of days and figure out where I go next. But I had change of plans and Tunganath happened. I realised later that Tunganath was on my go-to list too. When I reached the temple, I looked around the small sanctum, soaking in all that was around, I sat in a corner for good few minutes and touched the walls of this ancient temple in pure admiration. The temple is simple yet captivating. 


Tunganath Temple, Chopta


After Tunganath, I was all the more eager to head to Kedarnath. Mentally. Physically I was very tired. 


Since the number of piligrims flocking towards Kedarnath were uncontrollable, there were rumours about the temple being closed for 3 days, 4 days, 10 days and what not. This news, did not, even for once, question my decision to head towards Sonaprayag. Yes the weather is a factor which is not in anyone’s control, the flash floods in 2013 is still fresh in our minds but something inside me was so sure and at the same time kept praying that the walk and temple remains open. 


My health was yet another thing I was feeling would challenge me from doing the walk. I had not done a long walk for ages. My knee had a hard time walking down from Tunganath to Chopta. It was so bad that when I reached Sonaprayag around 9 pm, I could hardly walk without moving my leg crookedly so that it doesn’t pain. I had also picked up a stomach bug on my previous travel and it would show up every now and then. A 20 km walk without a toilet break was something I had to be prepared for (JFYI, there are toilets on the way but the usability is highly questionable) 


I still remember, that moment when I stepped out of my room at 3 am the next morning, wondering if I start the walk or stay another day for the body to heal. It was still dark but noisy on the street. Many had started their walk already and looking at them, it struck, that its not the fitness or the gears that would take me or anyone up there. It is only one thing that would, and that’s, faith. 


I started my walk at 5 am from Gauri Kund. 


Weather gods knew what’s best for me and had managed to set the scene perfectly. Nice clear day, not too sunny, not too cold. 


River Mandakini gushing beneath your feet, accompanies you pretty much all the way up.


The knee pain seemed to have disappeared even though it felt like I dint get any rest last night. 


I was half way (10 kms into the walk), I felt this is all I could do. I cannot walk another step. I thought some food might help. Up until now I was only munching on salt roasted channa. I stopped for a Aloo paratha which instilled some energy for sure. I resumed my walk. But the walk was only getting harder with every step. And the climb got steeper from here. There was no way I would hope on a horse or dholi or basket. My only option was to walk. 


I knew it wasn’t going get any easier so the only option left was to get stronger. Luckily, being HIS pataka guddi always been my biggest strength. Mind is indeed a powerful tool, and HE tools to encash that power always comes in handy. From here on, something pushed me up.


It was 1230 pm when I reached the temple. I wept like a child for 30 mins. I was excited too and called my husband but had to hung up halfway because I wasn’t able to speak a word. It was a blissful afternoon and I could just sit there forever. 


I managed to get the darshan twice in the evening. Never enough, for the inside of the temple is pure magic. It captivates all of you. The evening Aarthi is like his Tandav, mystic and mesmerising. The energy levels are hightened and very palpable. One can meditate with open eyes here. 


Sri Adi Shankaracharya's Samadhi

The Bheema rock, behind the temple, is a proof of HIS eternal protection. 


On HIS birthday, the 13th May, I joined a long darshan line at 445 am. The temple opens at 430 am. It was 8 am when I reached the temple. The wait was joyful. Watching the first ray of sun touching the snow peaks, the glittering slopes of ice, like HIS armour made of gold. It was beyond just beautiful. HIS adobe is not something anyone can describe in words. 



When I entered the temple this time and stood in front of the shiv ling, the bear lingam is so powerful that I experienced a jolt of energy in my body, which at the same time, felt like an innocent, pure consciousness. It was like a gentle greetings from HIM. 



When it was time to leave, I stopped my walk after a kilometre, unable to continue any further. The emotions welling up once again. And I blabbered to myself, something I wouldn’t understand, but mostly tears rolling down in gratitude. Not wanting to leave this ecstatic place, I questioned, Why. And pat came the answer, HE himself won’t stay here all year my dear. Imagine what would HE experience when it's time to leave HIS adobe come winters. I left with that answer. Feeling extremely grateful. 


Lots of Love


P.S., For most it won’t, but if the mind is stuck figuring out whether I address Gurudev Sri Sri Ravi Shankar or Lord Shiva as HE/HIM/HIS, see if you can drop it. If not, probe into it. 


More love.